Societally speaking, the Edwardian era faced many challenges– living conditions for the working class were abysmal, industrialization continued to create wealth, but more reforms would be needed to sufficiently protect workers, and the beginnings of the women’s suffrage movement were taking root. King Edward’s reign was short – 1901 until 1910, but this decade certainly left its mark in a myriad of ways. It’s important to note that this was a movement of the British empire, as Europe would be entrenched in the Belle Epoque, which we’ll talk about some other time.
Edwardian jewelry is perhaps most significantly marked by a rise in the use of platinum – especially set with diamonds and pearls and detailed with milgrain, a finely detailed border accomplished by placing tiny beads along the edges of a piece of jewelry. In addition to milgrain, filigree was very popular, achieving a lace-like appearance with fine metal threads and beads. The stronger metal allowed for the beautifully detailed, delicate metal work we now associate with the time period. Diamond mines in what is now South Africa began pouring stones into global markets at the time. Fine pearls were as expensive, if not moreso, than diamonds and would remain so until culturing practices were refined. The combination was a perfectly ostentatious display of wealth for members of high society to flaunt about town.
This was also a time full of now-familiar names. Joseph Asscher invented the Asscher cut diamond in this era. Cartier was named to the post of royal jeweler by King Edward. In response to the mass-produced pieces of the Victorian era, only realized through progress in manufacturing, there was a rise in popularity of hand-crafted jewelry. Cartier would create the lavaliere style of necklace in this period, in keeping with the trends of light and delicate design and reflecting changing necklines in fashion.
Technically, some of these trends have roots from before the official start of Edward’s reign. This era of excess was in backlash to the stifling late-Victorian era. The hedonism of this era would come to an abrupt end with the advent of World War I, which would usher in an era of hoarding and hiding jewels and items of value for many.
Quick Edwardian Jewelry Facts:
When: 1901-1910
Who: Named for the British monarch, King Edward
Motifs: Ribbons, Bows, Garlands, Tassels, Lavalieres, White Metal, Diamonds, Wreaths
